The summit is in two countries

The Czech-Polish border runs straight across the top of Sněžka, which is the most interesting thing about it and the source of most of the confusion online.

Standing up there you can be in Czechia or Poland depending on which side of the marker you're on. The buildings reflect that:

• The Chapel of St Lawrence, the oldest structure on the mountain, dating from 1665

• The Polish meteorological observatory, built in 1976, the strange stacked-disc building people describe as looking like a UFO

• The Czech post office, built in 2005 to 2006, where you can genuinely send a postcard from the highest point in the country

Sněžka is not the highest mountain in Poland. It's the highest point of the Giant Mountains and the highest point in Czechia, but Poland's high point is Rysy in the Tatras at 2,499 m. This trips people up constantly.

1,602 m or 1,603 m?

You'll see both. 1,602 m is the older published figure and 1,603 m is the current one following re-measurement. Wikipedia gives 1,603.3 m. Use 1,603.

Sněžka also has a prominence of roughly 1,197 m, which is enormous for a mountain of that height and explains why it looks far more imposing than the number suggests. Glacial erosion carved it into a three-sided pyramid, and it's the only Czech peak with a genuinely alpine profile.

Routes up Sněžka

From Pec pod Sněžkou (the usual Czech start, and mine):

• Blue trail through the Obří důl valley past the Dom Śląski hut, then a steep final climb

• Green then yellow via the Růžohorky hut, about 6.1 km one way with 835 m of ascent

• Both take roughly 1.5 to 3.5 hours up

From Horní Malá Úpa / Pomezní Boudy — generally considered the easiest, with the least ascent, following red or yellow markers along the ridge. Large paid car park.

From Špindlerův Mlýn — several longer options between 10.5 and 13 km, including the Kozí hřbety ridge and the Bílé Labe valley.

From Karpacz in Poland — the black trail is a paved cobbled route from the lift base, around 2.5 hours; the red from the Orlinek car park takes about 3. The yellow goes via the Łomniczka valley and waterfall.

Public transport connects all the trailheads, so a linear route up one side and down the other is easy to arrange. Walking up from Poland and down into Czechia is a genuinely good day.

The cable car

From Pec pod Sněžkou, in two stages via Růžová hora, taking about half an hour and covering roughly 700 m of ascent.

This is why the summit is busy. It's also a legitimate option: one way up and walk down, or walk up and ride down if your legs have had enough. It takes prams.

If you want the mountain to yourself, be at the top before the first cable car. That's the entire content of my iceberg tip and it's the single biggest factor in whether you enjoy this one.

Is it worth it?

I gave it 1/6, which is harsh on a perfectly nice mountain and entirely about the crowds.

The walking itself is pleasant, the Krkonoše landscape is often compared to Scandinavia, and the final couple of kilometres are a proper climb. But arriving at a summit shared with a few hundred people, a restaurant and a queue is not what I come to mountains for.

Go early, or go in winter. Dress seriously if you do go in winter, because the summit is exposed and much colder and windier than the valley. A 20 degree day at the bottom can be single digits, foggy and blowing hard at the top, in any season.

Then spend the afternoon in the village, which is the genuinely lovely part.

Practical notes

• Camping is not allowed in Krkonoše National Park. There are mountain huts including Luční bouda and Dom Śląski.

• Food and water are available at huts on the way up and at the top, so this is one of the few peaks where you don't need to carry a full day's supplies.

• Book accommodation ahead in summer weekends. It's the most visited place in the Czech mountains.

• Shops in small Czech towns close early and on Sundays. Buy your supplies the day before.

Frequently asked questions

What is the highest mountain in Czechia?

Sněžka, at 1,603 m, in the Krkonoše range on the Czech-Polish border.

Is Sněžka the highest mountain in Poland?

No. It's the highest point of the Giant Mountains and of Czechia, but Poland's highest is Rysy at 2,499 m in the Tatras.

Is the summit of Sněžka in Czechia or Poland?

Both. The border runs across the summit, and there are Czech and Polish buildings on top.

How high is Sněžka exactly?

1,603 m. Older sources say 1,602 m; the figure was revised upward after re-measurement.

How long does it take to climb Sněžka?

From Pec pod Sněžkou, roughly 1.5 to 3.5 hours up and 1.5 to 3 hours down, covering about 835 m of ascent. My round trip was about 13 km.

Can you take a cable car up Sněžka?

Yes, from Pec pod Sněžkou in two stages via Růžová hora, about 30 minutes. You can buy one-way tickets in either direction.

Do you need a permit or a guide?

No. There's no fee to hike and no guide requirement.

How hard is Sněžka?

Easy to moderate. Marked trails throughout, no scrambling. The last two kilometres are the steep part.

Can you climb Sněžka in winter?

Yes, and it's popular, but the summit is severely exposed. Dress for far worse conditions than the valley suggests.

Is there a post office on Sněžka?

Yes. The Czech post office at the summit, built in 2005 to 2006, sells food and you can send post from the highest point in the country.

Can you camp on Sněžka?

No. Camping is prohibited in Krkonoše National Park. Use the mountain huts.

When was Sněžka first climbed?

The first documented ascent was in 1456, by a Venetian merchant searching for precious stones.

Peak 10 of The Peak Project: climbing the highest point in every country in Europe.