The honest answer about the Skala to Mytikas scramble

I watched a lot of videos about this before I went and every one of them was either terrifying or dismissive. Neither is useful. So:

What it actually is. Roughly 400 m of class 3 scrambling on the UIAA scale, from Skala across the Kaki Skala ("bad steps") to the summit. Steep, hands needed, moderate exposure. Well marked with red and yellow paint. It took me 40 minutes.

Who can do it. If you have done via ferrata, bouldering, rock climbing or a few scramble hikes before, you will be fine. If you are a beginner hiker, take a guide.

Going down is easier than going up. I want to say that clearly because it's the opposite of what I expected and it's the question I most wanted answered before I went. If you're someone whose descending is weaker than your climbing, this one doesn't punish you for it.

In poor visibility, follow the markers. They're every 5 to 10 metres. If you can see the next one, you're on route. I did this in cloud and it was fine.

The real danger is other people. Rockfall from parties above you is the recurring hazard on this peak, because it's busy. A helmet is not optional. Gloves too. Start early and get ahead of the refuge crowd; I was above the refuge before 9am while most people were still at breakfast, and had the scramble almost to myself.

If the rock is wet, don't. I overheard people coming down saying the humidity had made it slippery and that if it was too bad you shouldn't attempt it. That's the correct call. Skolio is six metres lower, has no scrambling and is a genuine summit.

The peaks, and why you might not want Mytikas

Mount Olympus has 52 peaks. Four matter for this:

• Mytikas, 2,917.7 m. The high point. Requires the Kaki Skala scramble.

• Skolio, around 2,911 m. Second highest, reached by an easy slope from Skala. No scrambling. This is the answer if you want the mountain without the exposure.

• Stefani, around 2,909 m. Zeus' Throne. Needs a technical, very exposed move at the top.

• Skala, around 2,880 m. The junction where you decide.

Skala is where you leave your pack, keep your valuables, and choose your day.

The route from Prionia

Litochoro is the base town, 18 km from the trailhead. Taxi to Prionia (1,100 m) takes about 30 minutes. Prionia is as high as cars go, has parking, a café, toilets and a spring to fill bottles.

Day 1: Prionia to Spilios Agapitos refuge (2,100 m). Roughly 2 hours on the E4 through forest. Refuge A, as it's usually called, is where most people stay. Book ahead in season.

Day 2: refuge to Skala (about 2 hours), then Mytikas. Above the refuge you leave the trees and it's alpine.

Doing it in one day from Prionia is around 20 km with over 2,000 m of ascent, and 12 to 14 hours. Some people go from Litochoro itself, which is longer again.

The Louki couloir from Zonaria is the alternative finish, a 200 m scramble on the other side. It has more rockfall risk than the Kaki Skala. There's also a via ferrata route on the mountain, which a local guide recommended to me. I chose the E4 and the Kaki Skala instead, because I was alone and the weather wasn't ideal, and I'd rather be on the route I'd researched than the one I hadn't.

Bring a headlamp

I forgot mine and did the first section of a 4am start on a phone torch, in a national park where brown bears are present in northern Greece.

Nothing happened. It was still stupid. Take a headlamp.

Practical notes

• Over 10,000 people a year aim for the summit. June to September is the busy window and when the huts are open.

• Sign the visitors book at the top.

• Litochoro has climbing shops where you can hire a helmet and gloves. I got mine there, and the advice was worth as much as the kit.

• Book accommodation early. Mine cancelled on me the day before and I had to go door to door around Litochoro. In peak summer, everything sells out.

• Food is excellent and cheap. A full meal for around 20 euros. Get the leftovers boxed as your summit sandwich; mine was smoked mackerel, potato and tomato.

Thessaloniki as a base

Thessaloniki is the nearest city and the easiest way to fly in. It rarely appears on "best of Greece" lists, mostly because Greece has so much competition, but it's a good pit stop and the gateway to Olympus.

Worth knowing that in high summer it becomes genuinely unbearable outdoors from around 10am. Do your walking early, then find an espresso freddo.

Frequently asked questions

What is the highest mountain in Greece?

Mount Olympus. Its highest peak is Mytikas, surveyed in 2023 at 2,917.727 m.

Is Mytikas 2,917 m or 2,918 m?

Both figures circulate, along with 2,918.8 m. A 2023 GNSS survey by researchers including the University of Thessaloniki gave 2,917.727 m, which is the most precise measurement available.

How hard is it to climb Mount Olympus?

The walk to Skala is a straightforward, if long, mountain hike. The final section to Mytikas is a class 3 scramble with moderate exposure, taking around 40 minutes each way.

Do you need climbing experience for Mytikas?

Some. If you've done via ferrata, bouldering or scrambling before, you'll manage. Complete beginners should hire a guide.

Do you need a guide to climb Mount Olympus?

No, and most people don't. A guide is worth it if you have no scrambling experience or if conditions are marginal.

Do you need a helmet?

Yes. Rockfall from other climbers above you is the main hazard on the Kaki Skala. Helmet and gloves both.

Can you reach a summit without scrambling?

Yes. Skolio, at around 2,911 m, is the second highest peak on the mountain and is reached by walking. It's six metres lower than Mytikas.

Is going down harder than going up?

No, and this surprises people. The descent of the Kaki Skala is easier than the ascent.

How long does it take?

Two days is standard: about 2 hours from Prionia to Refuge A, then around 2 hours to Skala and 40 minutes to Mytikas. As a single day from Prionia it's roughly 20 km, over 2,000 m of ascent, and 12 to 14 hours.

Where do you start?

Prionia, at 1,100 m, is the highest point reachable by car, 18 km from Litochoro.

Is there a refuge?

Yes, Spilios Agapitos (Refuge A) at 2,100 m, plus Giosos Apostolidis on the Muses Plateau. Open in summer, book ahead.

When is the best time to climb Mount Olympus?

June to September, when the refuges are open and the snow has gone. Outside that the mountain is quiet but becomes a winter objective.

Do you need a permit?

No permit and no fee.

Peak 13 of The Peak Project: climbing the highest point in every country in Europe.