Mulhacén is not the highest mountain in Spain

This trips people up constantly, so plainly:

• Mulhacén, 3,479 m — highest in mainland Spain and the highest on the Iberian Peninsula. It's also the highest mountain in Western Europe outside the Alps.

• Teide, 3,715 m — highest in Spain overall, on Tenerife in the Canary Islands.

Both are true statements. Which one you need depends on whether you're counting the islands.

You'll occasionally see Mulhacén listed as 3,482 m and Teide as 3,718 m. 3,479 m and 3,715 m are the standard figures.

"Boring and repetitive" is a warning worth ignoring

I nearly skipped this one. Reading accounts from other people doing similar projects, the recurring word was repetitive. Long dirt road, gradual climb, not much drama.

Here's what's actually there: eight kilometres of track in the dark with nobody else on the mountain, then sunrise over a landscape that genuinely looks like a grassy Mars, then the Mediterranean Sea visible from the summit ridge, then wild horses on the way down.

The route is long and gradual, and that's the whole point. It's not technical, there's no scrambling, no exposure and no route-finding crux. What it gives you instead is altitude, distance and space. If you arrive expecting drama you'll find it dull. If you arrive expecting a big quiet day at 3,000 m, it's superb.

Mindset does a lot of the work on a mountain like this.

The routes

Hoya del Portillo (2,145 m). The classic independent option and the one I did. It's the highest point you can drive to, about half an hour up winding dirt road from Capileira, with free parking. From the barrier you follow a dirt road, closed to cars, for over 8 km to Alto del Chorrillo (2,727 m), then a narrower, steeper trail over Mulhacén II (3,362 m) to the summit. Around 26 km return with roughly 1,340 m of ascent, about 8 hours.

The Capileira minibus. In season, the Sierra Nevada High Peaks Interpretation Service (SIAC) runs a minibus from Capileira up to Alto del Chorrillo or the Mirador de Trevélez, around 2,700 m. That turns the day into roughly 12 to 13 km with 760 to 900 m of ascent, five to seven hours. You must reserve well in advance, and it only runs seasonally. This is the easiest way to the summit by a wide margin.

Hoya de la Mora / Posiciones del Veleta, from the ski resort side, which lets you combine Mulhacén with Veleta.

Trevélez via Siete Lagunas, the scenic overnight approach.

There's also the Refugio Poqueira if you want to break the walk over two days.

Navigation and markers

Below the tree line the waymarks are yellow and white. Above it, where there are no trees and no posts, the route is marked by cairns.

That matters more than it sounds. On the descent it's easy to drift too far east; keep the pine trees as your reference. The upper mountain is open and featureless enough that in cloud or snow the navigation gets serious quickly, despite the easy summer grade.

Altitude

Mulhacén is the first peak on this project over 3,000 m, and altitude is worth taking seriously here because of how quickly you can get high. You can be at sea level in Granada or on the coast in the morning and at 3,479 m the same day.

Rough altitude bands:

• High: 1,500 to 3,500 m. Mulhacén sits here.

• Very high: 3,500 to 5,500 m. Mont Blanc and Dufourspitze.

• Extremely high: above 5,500 m. Elbrus, technically Europe's highest peak, is at the bottom of this band.

The most common cause of altitude sickness is going too high too fast, and it's preventable. What we did: ate plenty of carbohydrates, drank consistently, and took regular breaks rather than pushing.

Some people are simply more susceptible than others. My partner gets symptoms more readily than I do, and on Triglav in Slovenia he had a mild headache, was a bit off, and was tripping slightly. Those are the signs to watch: headache, lightheadedness, clumsiness, unusual behaviour.

If in doubt, go down. Descending a few hundred metres is free. Pushing on with symptoms on a ridge in a high-stakes environment is not. Better to lose the summit than lose more than that.

Cold, and a note if you have Raynaud's

It was cold enough near the top that gloves stopped being enough and I couldn't feel my fingers. The sun on that ridge is what makes the day comfortable, which is another argument for a route that puts you high after sunrise rather than before it.

I have Raynaud's, so I have to be more careful than most about getting cold. If you're the same: extra glove layers, something to warm your hands against, and don't wait until you've lost sensation to act.

Practical notes

• No water on the route. Carry everything for a full day at altitude.

• Sun protection. You're at 3,000 m with no shade whatsoever.

• Starting in the dark is worth it for the sunrise and having the summit to yourself, but bring a proper head torch, not a phone.

• Best season: roughly March to November for the standard routes, with summer clearest of snow.

• Dogs: we left ours with a sitter in Granada. 26 km is a lot for any dog, and ours had a knee injury. Consider the distance honestly.

Frequently asked questions

What is the highest mountain in mainland Spain?

Mulhacén, at 3,479 m, in the Sierra Nevada in Andalusia. It's also the highest point on the Iberian Peninsula.

Is Mulhacén the highest mountain in Spain?

No. Teide on Tenerife is higher at 3,715 m. Mulhacén is the highest on the mainland.

Is Mulhacén the highest mountain outside the Alps in Western Europe?

Yes, on the mainland. It's higher than anything in the Pyrenees, including Aneto at 3,404 m.

How hard is it to climb Mulhacén?

Technically easy. There's no scrambling and nothing exposed on the normal routes. The difficulty is length, altitude and lack of water rather than terrain.

How long does the Mulhacén hike take?

About 8 hours for the 26 km round trip from Hoya del Portillo. Five to seven hours if you use the seasonal minibus to Alto del Chorrillo.

What is the easiest route up Mulhacén?

From Alto del Chorrillo, using the seasonal SIAC minibus from Capileira. Reserve well in advance.

Can you drive to the start of the Mulhacén hike?

To Hoya del Portillo at 2,145 m, which is as high as private vehicles are permitted. Parking there is free.

Do you need a permit or a guide?

No permit, no fee, no guide requirement. The minibus does need booking.

Is there water on the route?

No. Carry all of it.

Do you need to worry about altitude on Mulhacén?

Yes. At 3,479 m, reached quickly from near sea level, altitude sickness is a genuine possibility. Ascend steadily, eat, hydrate, and descend if symptoms appear.

When is the best time to climb Mulhacén?

Roughly March through November. Summer is the clearest of snow; winter turns it into a mountaineering route.

Can you camp on Mulhacén?

Sierra Nevada National Park has restrictions on camping and bivouacking. Check current rules with the park, or use the Refugio Poqueira.

Peak 18 of The Peak Project: climbing the highest point in every country in Europe.