Dinara or Sinjal? Both are correct

This confuses people searching for it, so here it is plainly.

The same summit has two names. People from Knin call it Dinara, after the mountain. People from Kijevo have called it Sinjal for a long time. Croatian mountaineering sources use both, often together as "Dinara (Sinjal)".

There's a second layer of confusion worth knowing: Dinara is also the name of the whole massif, and the highest point of that massif is not in Croatia. Troglav, at 1,913 m, sits on the Bosnian side of the border. So Sinjal at 1,831 m is the highest point in Croatia, but not the highest point of the mountain range Croatia named itself after.

The route from Glavaš

This is the standard and easiest way up, and the one I took.

Glavaš mountain hut sits at 550 m, about 200 m beyond the last houses in the village. Glavaš is roughly 30 minutes by car from Knin, or reachable from Kijevo (22 km from Knin) along a road heading north-east towards Uništa. There is no public transport to Glavaš. I got a taxi, and the engine overheated about 20 minutes in, which tells you something about both the road and the temperature.

From the hut the trail climbs open ground past the medieval Dinarić-Glavaš fortress, built around the turn of the 15th century to watch the routes into Bosnia. It continues past dry stone walls and a spring, then to the Martinove košare shelter at 1,287 m, an old shepherd's hut kept as basic storm shelter, before climbing steeply along the Kobiljovača ridge onto a grassy plateau and up to the summit.

There's also the Drago Grubać mountain house about an hour below the top, with water, a rustic outdoor toilet and basic kitchen.

Allow 4 to 5 hours up. It took me around 3 hours moving fast in the dark and early morning. It is not technical. No scrambling, no hands needed.

Two junctions to watch: the path splits in a couple of places on the way up. Where I had a choice I took the branch with two water sources marked on it, which was the right call, but bring a map rather than relying on that.

The alternative: Brezovac

If you'd rather break the climb, start from the Suvo Polje car park and walk up to the Brezovac hut at 1,050 m, which leaves 2 to 3 hours to the summit the next day. This route is more forgiving for less experienced hikers because you can split it over two days. Book the hut in advance.

Note the access road to Brezovac from the Knin side is unpaved, winding and in poor condition, and the forest road section is realistically 4x4 only.

There's also a longer approach from Knin itself, which takes roughly double the Glavaš route.

The heat is the real difficulty

Everything about this climb is governed by temperature.

It hit 35 degrees on both my days there, which locals told me was unusual for the time of year. The terrain is mostly open, exposed limestone and grassland with almost no shade above the tree line.

Start before dawn. I set off at 4am. On the way down at midday I passed people heading up in the full heat and it looked miserable. The descent from the summit is fast and clear, considerably easier to follow than the ascent.

Horseflies. Nobody warns you about these and they were genuinely the worst part of the day, worse than the heat.

Carry far more water than you think. There are water sources at Martinove košare and Drago Grubać, but treat them as bonuses rather than the plan.

At the summit

The top has several rocky knolls covered in dwarf pine. One has a geodetic pillar, another has a metal cross. There's a metal box on the rock near the pillar with a stamp and a summit book in it, so sign in.

Worth knowing if you're collecting: Dinara is the one summit on the Croatian hiking trail where the stamp alone isn't enough. You need a photo from the top as well.

On a clear day you can see most of the mountains of Dalmatia and Bosnia, and Lake Peruća below.

Sleeping in the mountain hut

The Glavaš hut is basic and it was a good place to stay before an early start. It's also the reason for my iceberg tip: bring a tent in case it's occupied. It's small, and there's an annual trail race called "To the Top of Croatia" plus other ultra events that use these routes, so it can fill without warning.

On my night there, two men in red t-shirts turned up at 10pm and tried the door. I had no lights on, so they didn't know anyone was inside. I spent a few minutes working out where the axe outside was before deciding they looked official and opening up. They were race support, waiting for one of the last ultramarathon runners to come through.

Nothing happened. But if you're staying up there alone, be aware the huts are unlocked, people do come and go at odd hours during race season, and there's no phone signal to check.

Don't skip the source of the Cetina

This is the best thing I did in Croatia and I only found it because the peak took me there.

Izvor Cetine, the source of the Cetina river, is a deep karst spring near the village of Cetina, next to a distinctive old church. The water is around 4 degrees, which after a 35 degree day is exactly as shocking and as good as it sounds.

There's a small kiosk run by Nikola at weekends and holidays. Say hello.

Frequently asked questions

What is the highest peak in Croatia?

Dinara, also known as Sinjal, at 1,831 m, in Dinara Nature Park near the Bosnian border.

Why does Dinara have two names?

People from Knin call it Dinara; people from Kijevo call it Sinjal. Both refer to the same 1,831 m summit.

Is Dinara the highest point of the Dinaric Alps?

No. The highest point of the Dinara massif is Troglav at 1,913 m, which is in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sinjal is the highest point within Croatia.

How hard is it to climb Dinara?

Not technically hard. There's no scrambling and no exposure to speak of. The difficulty is the 1,280 m of ascent, the distance, and above all the heat and lack of shade.

How long does it take?

From Glavaš, 4 to 5 hours up for most people and around 3 hours down. From Brezovac hut, 2 to 3 hours to the summit.

Where do you start the hike?

Glavaš mountain hut at 550 m is the usual and easiest start. Suvo Polje to Brezovac hut is the alternative if you want to split it over two days.

Can you get to Dinara by public transport?

No. There's no public transport to Glavaš. You need a car or a taxi from Knin or Kijevo.

Do you need a permit or a guide?

No permit, no guide, no fee.

Is there a mountain hut on Dinara?

Yes, several. Glavaš at 550 m at the trailhead, Martinove košare shelter at 1,287 m, Drago Grubać about an hour below the summit, and Brezovac at 1,050 m on the other approach. Book ahead where you can and carry a tent as backup.

When is the best time to climb Dinara?

Spring and autumn. Summer is punishing on this mountain because the route is almost entirely unshaded. If you go in heat, start before sunrise.

Is there water on the route?

There are springs and water sources at the shelters, but carry your own. In high heat you'll want considerably more than usual.

Peak 5 of The Peak Project: climbing the highest point in every country in Europe.