PThe four routes up the Zugspitze

This matters more than on most mountains, because the routes are genuinely different in character and only some of them are non-technical.

• Reintal. The longest and the least technical. Normally starts at the Partnachklamm gorge near Garmisch-Partenkirchen and follows the valley past the Reintalangerhütte and Knorrhütte. No via ferrata. This is the route to pick if you don't want cables, and the one we took.

• Höllental. The classic. Gorge, ladders, a via ferrata section and a small glacier crossing. Needs a helmet, a via ferrata set and experience.

• Stopselzieher, from Ehrwald on the Austrian side. Via ferrata.

• Gatterl, also from the Austrian side, crossing into Germany and joining the Reintal path higher up. Non-technical, and a shorter day than the full Reintal.

Whichever you choose, most people take the cable car down. Descending 2,000 m on tired legs is optional here in a way it isn't on most mountains, and there's no reason to be a hero about it.

Book the cable car, and know the last one

This is the practical thing that will actually affect your day.

The last cable car down runs mid-afternoon to early evening depending on season and operator. Ours was at 4:45pm in June, which meant the entire climb was run against that clock. Miss it and you're walking down in the dark or paying for a summit-area bed.

There are two cable cars from the top: the German side down to the Eibsee, and the Tiroler Zugspitzbahn down to Ehrwald in Austria. Take the one that ends where your car is.

Buy tickets online in advance if you can. We couldn't, because of the G7 disruption, so we had to reach the summit with enough time to queue at the ticket desk before closing. Factor that in.

Climbing during the G7, and what it actually closed

Useful as a case study in checking access before you drive to a mountain.

The G7 summit was held at Schloss Elmau near Krün, 26 to 28 June 2022. The effects on the mountain were substantial:

• The Partnachklamm was closed 24 to 28 June, which closed the standard Reintal start

• The German Alpine Club confirmed this also affected the Zugspitze ascent via the Reintalanger and Knorr huts

• Numerous walkers' car parks around Garmisch, Elmau and Mittenwald were shut for weeks

• Police checkpoints on every approach road, with vans stopped and searched, since protesters were expected

• Trains between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Mittenwald suspended

• The alternative ascent from Garmisch via the Partnachalm stayed open, but you were advised to carry ID

We got stopped repeatedly, explained we were going to climb the Zugspitze rather than protest, and got laughed at. Eventually we based ourselves in Austria and approached from there rather than keep dealing with it.

The transferable lesson: on a mountain this close to a major town, check regional closures the week before you go, not just the weather.

Taking a dog up the Zugspitze

The honest answer, which I'll give despite doing it: probably don't.

We chose the Reintal specifically because it's non-technical and Bella could manage it. She did the whole thing and was brilliant. But:

• Only some routes are dog-viable. Höllental and Stopselzieher involve ladders, cables and a glacier. They are not options with a dog.

• There's a section near the top with drops on both sides where she got shaky. A heavy-duty hiking harness you can lift her by made the difference. If your dog doesn't already do exposed ground calmly, this is the wrong mountain to find out.

• It's 25 km and 2,000 m of ascent, which is a serious day for any dog regardless of temperament.

• Watch for altitude effects the same way you would in a person.

If in doubt, leave them at the bottom. The mountain will still be there.

What the walk is actually like

The Reintal is a genuinely beautiful approach and nothing like the "Germany" people picture. Deep forest, a river the whole way, and waterfalls I had no idea existed. It feels more Snow White than Alpine for the first couple of hours.

It's gentle until the second hut, and then it is uphill without pause. That transition is abrupt and it's worth bracing for.

The summit itself has a restaurant, a viewing platform, a queue for the golden cross and a lot of people who arrived by cable car. If that's not what you want, get the view, get a drink, and don't queue for the photo.

Practical notes

Carry cash in Austria. I'd assumed card everywhere and repeatedly couldn't pay with one. It's not universal but it caught me out more than once.

Take real food. It's an 8 to 10 hour day and the huts aren't always open when you need them.

Frequently asked questions

What is the highest mountain in Germany?

The Zugspitze, at 2,962 m, in the Wetterstein range on the German-Austrian border.

Is the Zugspitze summit in Germany or Austria?

Both. The border runs across the summit area, which is why there are cable cars up from each country.

Can you walk up the Zugspitze?

Yes. There are four main hiking routes. The Reintal and Gatterl routes are non-technical; the Höllental and Stopselzieher routes involve via ferrata.

How long does it take to climb the Zugspitze?

Typically 8 to 10 hours for the ascent on the Reintal route, which is around 25 km with roughly 2,000 m of ascent. Many people split it over two days using a mountain hut.

Do you need via ferrata equipment?

Not on the Reintal or Gatterl routes. Yes on the Höllental and Stopselzieher, where a helmet and via ferrata set are essential.

Do you need a permit?

No. There's no permit or fee to climb.

Can you take the cable car down from the Zugspitze?

Yes, and most walkers do. There's a German-side cable car to the Eibsee and an Austrian-side one to Ehrwald. Check the last departure time before you set off, and book online where possible.

Can you take a dog up the Zugspitze?

On the non-technical routes, physically yes, but it's a long, high day with an exposed section near the summit. The via ferrata routes are not possible with a dog. Consider leaving them at the bottom.

What's the easiest route up the Zugspitze?

The Gatterl route from the Austrian side is the shortest non-technical option. The Reintal is easier underfoot but much longer.

When is the best time to climb it?

Roughly late June to September, once the snow has cleared from the upper sections.

Is the Zugspitze busy?

At the summit, yes, because of the cable cars. The walking routes themselves are much quieter.

Peak 7 of The Peak Project: climbing the highest point in every country in Europe.