Hunting on the Coma Pedrosa trail

This is the part I couldn't find anywhere before I went, and it's the reason for the iceberg tip.

Andorra has regulated hunting seasons, largely in autumn, and the ground being hunted overlaps directly with popular hiking terrain including the Comapedrosa valley. There is no separate hunting zone away from the trails.

Bella was off-lead and running in what I judged to be a hunter's line of sight. When we approached, one of the two men said he would shoot my dog. It escalated, I swore at them, and everyone walked away unharmed, but it was a genuinely frightening few minutes on what had been a lovely morning.

What I'd do differently: keep the dog on a lead for the entire lower and middle section, wear something bright, and check the current hunting calendar with the Andorran government before you go rather than assuming a marked hiking trail means no shooting.

One thing I want to say clearly: one bad encounter with two people is not a country. Everyone else I met in Andorra was kind, and I'd go back.

The route from Arinsal

The classic and by far the most common way up.

Start at the car park at the top of Arinsal in La Massana, about 30 minutes from Andorra la Vella on the CG-4 then CG-5. Parking is cheap but fills in high season, so arrive before 8am.

The trail follows the well-signed GR 11 through forest alongside the Riu de Comapedrosa, then opens into a valley at the Collet de Comapedrosa around 2,220 m. Two hundred metres off to the left is the Refugi de Coma Pedrosa at about 2,260 m, a staffed hut where you can stop or stay overnight if you'd rather split the climb and summit at sunrise.

Above the refuge the route passes the glacial lakes, including Estany de les Truites and Estany Negre, and then climbs steeply to the ridge and the summit.

The split is roughly: Arinsal to the refuge is moderate, the 650 m or so of it going by fairly comfortably. Everything above the refuge is the hard part, and it's mostly open, sun-exposed ground.

There are longer circular options taking in Pic Negre and other summits along the Spanish border, and some AllTrails variants that cut across the valley onto an exposed scrambling ridge. If you want the straightforward version, stay on the GR 11 and don't follow the shortcut.

What makes it hard

Not the technique. There's no scrambling on the standard route and no gear beyond normal hiking kit.

It's the 1,400 m of ascent, almost all in the open sun. People underestimate this because Andorra is small and southern, and then find themselves on a big Pyrenean day with no shade.

The Pyrenean microclimate is volatile. Violent afternoon storms are common even when the morning is perfect. Start early and be off the ridge by early afternoon.

Water: there are sources most of the way up but not on the final ridge. Carry at least two litres.

Wild camping and vans

Camping is not permitted in the natural park. If you want to be high before dawn, stay at the refuge.

We were in a van and used Park4Night to find legal overnight spots, which worked well. Andorra also has free public drinking fountains, which saved us when we ran out of water.

One thing to check: Andorra hosts an Ironman, and we got caught by a road closure that shut us in for most of a day. Small country, big events, roads closed with little notice. Look up what's on before you plan your driving days.

What I got wrong

I hurt my ankle at the very end of the hike, plus a thumb and a knee, coming down when I was tired and had stopped concentrating. It cancelled the next peak in the project.

Eight peaks in and it's the worst thing that had happened, which tells you the mountain isn't especially dangerous. It also tells you the last kilometre of a long descent is where you get hurt, not the summit.

Is it worth it?

The views from the top are genuinely superb, and the glacial lakes on the way back down are freezing and exactly what you want after 1,400 m of climbing in the sun.

I've rated it 2/6, and that's honest, but it's a rating of my day rather than the mountain. The hunter encounter coloured the whole thing.

Frequently asked questions

What is the highest peak in Andorra?

Pic de Coma Pedrosa, at 2,943 m, in the Pyrenees near Arinsal in the parish of La Massana.

How high is Coma Pedrosa exactly?

Sources vary between 2,942 m and 2,945 m. Wikipedia and most country high-point lists give 2,943 m (9,656 ft), which is the figure I'd use.

How hard is it to climb Coma Pedrosa?

Technically straightforward but physically strenuous. About 1,400 m of ascent over roughly 7 km each way, on marked trail with no climbing sections in summer. Most people take 4 to 6 hours up.

Do you need a permit or a guide?

No. There's no permit, no fee and no guide requirement.

Where does the hike start?

The car park at the top of Arinsal, La Massana, at roughly 1,550 m. Around 30 minutes by car from Andorra la Vella.

Is there a mountain hut on Coma Pedrosa?

Yes, the Refugi de Coma Pedrosa at about 2,260 m, staffed in season, where you can eat or stay overnight to split the climb.

Can you take a dog up Coma Pedrosa?

Physically yes, it's non-technical. But keep them on a lead: the trail crosses ground used for hunting, and I had a direct threat made against my dog.

Is there hunting near the Coma Pedrosa hiking trails?

Yes. Andorran hunting seasons overlap with the hiking terrain in this valley. Check the current calendar before you go, keep dogs leashed and wear bright colours in autumn.

When is the best time to climb it?

Roughly May to October. Start early regardless, because afternoon thunderstorms in the Pyrenees are frequent and fast.

Can you camp on Coma Pedrosa?

No. Camping isn't permitted in the natural park. The refuge is the alternative.

Is there water on the route?

Yes for most of the ascent, but not on the final ridge section. Carry at least two litres.

Peak 8 of The Peak Project: climbing the highest point in every country in Europe.